“This is a beautiful, peachy pink in color. This smells like macerated strawberries and raspberries. The attack is eye-opening with slicing dryness and a delightfully heady amount of beautifully developed fruit. Dried apricot and peach take the lead followed by whole wheat croutons and roasted almond slivers. The mousse is miniscule—truly, remarkably refined. The finish is punctuated by bright lift with the pop of the bubbles and the integrated acidity. The harmony is impressive. This hails from the La Rivière vineyard in Cumières. The Pinot Noir is “infused” for color and aromas for five days then the blend of 20% Pinot Noir and 80% Brut Nature. A small, 11% of the wine was aged in oak barrels prior to the prise de mousse. This was disgorged in April 2022 then aged four months before release.”

This is a cool, mineral and even austere white, showing notes of apricot stones, chalk, wet clay, white ash, grapefruit and sandalwood. It’s medium-bodied, sharp and alert, with spiciness and tension. Chardonnay from lieu-dit Volibarts in Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger. Mostly vinified in ceramic with 25% in new oak. Better from 2024.

This is so fragrant and spicy, brimming with aromas of cloves, balsamic, blood orange, rust, dried flowers and burnt rosemary. And then silky on the palate, medium-bodied, with supple and gorgeously sleek tannins, complementing the ethereal and lightly estery character. Long and elegant. Pinot noir from lieu-dit Charmont in Mareuil-Sur-Ay. Vinified with 40% stem inclusion. Delightful already but better after 2024.

“A great 2015 vintage champagne! Super-elegant synthesis of pinot noir and chardonnay character with a dazzling interplay of complex red apple, citrus and delicate floral aromas with racy acidity and chalky minerality, that is animating for mind and body. Unusually graceful finish for the vintage. 70% pinot noir from Verzy, the highest point of the Montagne de Reims, that’s also very close to the forest. 30% chardonnay from Chouilly, another rather cool location. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”

“A great 2015 vintage champagne! Super-elegant synthesis of pinot noir and chardonnay character with a dazzling interplay of complex red apple, citrus and delicate floral aromas with racy acidity and chalky minerality, that is animating for mind and body. Unusually graceful finish for the vintage. 70% pinot noir from Verzy, the highest point of the Montagne de Reims, that’s also very close to the forest. 30% chardonnay from Chouilly, another rather cool location. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”