From the challenging 2017 vintage, a growing season plagued by severe spring frosts, a lackluster summer, and bouts of botrytis in the run-up to harvest, somehow comes the bright, breezy breath of fresh air! The 2017 Rosé Vintage is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay from Roederer’s la Rivière estate. It reveals a very subtle salmon-pink color. Delicate scents of fresh raspberries, wild strawberries, and McIntosh apples languorously drift from the glass, followed by chalk dust and rose bud tea suggestions. The palate is understated and elegantly styled with a zippy line of freshness and tiny, persistent bubbles supporting the red berry and chalky layers, finishing with a quietly intense floral perfume. 29% was aged in oak, 24% went through malo-lactic, and it has 8 grams per liter of dosage, making for a very dry expression with great tension and finesse.

Roederer’s specialty multi-vintage house blend is the annual Collection creation, and this year’s Collection 245 is a finely woven, mineral-laced beauty. Composed of 41% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, and 24% Pinot Meunier, the backbone (55%) is from the 2020 harvest, while 35% comes from a Perpetual Reserve of 2012-2019 vintages, and 10% is Reserve Wines aged in oak (2010, 2013, 2015, 2017, 2018, and 2019). The dosage is just 7 grams per liter. Notes of citron blossom, lemon tart, and lime leaves slowly emerge from the glass, leading to hints of raising bread dough, fresh ginger, and sea spray, with a touch of coriander seed. The light-bodied, very dry, beautifully poised palate is elegantly crafted with intense citrus and mineral layers and a lively yet well-knit backbone, finishing long and chalky. I love the restraint here—unmistakably Roederer.

Complex nose of restrained strawberries and lemon zest, with macerated flowers and shortbread. Full body and plenty of concentration, with pinprick mousse, long and chewy, integrated acidity and amazing length. Pinot noir and chardonnay. Drink or hold.

Restrained green apple, lemon bush and lime, plus light brioche and chalk. Medium to full body with fine, nicely persistent bubbles and good substance on the mid-palate. Almost biting yet polished at the end, with long, refreshing acidity. Lacks a bit of complexity at the moment, but fresh. Best from 2025.

Fresh and elegant, with good focus to the pure flavors of plum skin, creamed cherry, dried lavender and sandalwood, backed by an underpinning of graphite and tar-tinged smoke. The silky tannins are fine-grained and well-meshed, providing light, taut tension on the finish. Drink now through 2032.