There’s lots of tension and focus to this version, with the fine, pointillisme-like bead dancing a graceful foxtrot on the palate, carrying tropical hints of passion fruit coulis and blood orange granita along with an overtone of oyster shell and accents of pickled ginger and anise. This is lacy on the finish, with a salty undertow coming to the fore to create a lingering, mouthwatering impression.

The 2021 Rubicon has quite an extrovert bouquet, more so than the 2001; black plum, dark chocolate and light violet scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy, ripe tannins, more body and depth here, cohering nicely towards the slightly lactic finish that fans out nicely. Fine. Tasted at the Meerlust tasting at Berry Brothers & Rudd in London.

The 2021 Terre Alte slowly opens with an understated blend of white peaches, freshly sliced nectarines, lime zest and mint. It is weightier than expected yet harmonious, with silken depths and masses of citrus-infused orchard fruits and gingery spices swirling throughout. Long and potent, it leaves the senses stained in primary concentration and minerals, tapering off structured and intense. Bury the Terre Alte in the cellar.

Candied orange and confectionery spice mix with dried pineapple as the 2019 Picolit blossoms in the glass. It is noticeably sweet, with oily textures and a salted almond tinge that adds remarkable balance and satisfying seduction. Sour citrus mingles with ginger and a touch of zesty acidity, as the 2019 finishes long yet unexpectedly fresh.

A pretty, soft, coral color, with hints of onion skin. An initially reticent nose, gradually ceding rosehips and other more delicate red fruits (strawberry, maybe), pepper, and spice in support. A robust, phenolic, youthful palate, rejoicing in a sunny disposition but aware of the need for restraint and recalling its lack of sugar; poised and somewhat statuesque on the finish. Giacometti has been sharing a glimpse of Botero, but ultimately, and with no lack of dignity, he holds court.