Fresh and enticing, with a steady beam of plum and black cherry compote flavors, lending this a generous feel. Liberally gilded with violet and ink on the finish and kept grounded with a twinge of iron at the tail end. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2035.

It is telling to compare warm and cool years at the turn of the 2010s, when these wines increasingly reflect both vintage character and a firmly established house style. The 2010 Castillo Ygay (Tempranillo with a dash of Mazuelo) comes from a cool year and shows as such: initially closed and reductive, clearly mid-evolution. With air, it opens onto fine, fresh plum and cassis alongside finely drawn oak, mint, menthol and a touch of lavender. Tertiary notes are beginning to form, including delicate dried flowers, and there is beeswax again in the mix. Taut and slightly compact, it finishes long and tertiary-leaning, anchored by juicy freshness and tannins that still carry energy.

After the wine was not produced in 2013, 2014 and 2015, the 2016 Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial returns as a statement of precision and poise. The Tempranillo was aged for 31 months in American oak and the Mazuelo in French oak, followed by six months in oak vats, 12 months in concrete and bottle-aging since January 2021. It reads beautifully today, with élevage-driven aromatics that move from sandalwood and fine oak to soft toffee, while the fruit sits perfectly inside the frame—fresh plum, a trace of sour cherry and gentle notes of mint, lavender and menthol, plus a hint of sweet cinnamon. The wine feels packed with tertiary precursors. Dry, taut and delicate, it combines chalky nuance with a fine, gripping thread that shapes the palate. What lingers is the silk-like texture, bringing refreshing energy and sharply defined detail. Long, very long, it leans toward the ethereal: more perfume than wine. Like Alice’s rabbit hole, it draws you in, and then the experience shifts into another world.

Aromas of wild berries, rose petals and lilac introduce the 2023 de Pez, a medium- to full-bodied, rather rich and muscular wine that reflects this estate's growing ambitions.

The 2023 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is showing a more brooding, serious profile in bottle than it did from cask, unwinding in the glass with notes of blueberries, blackberries and plums mingled with hints of pencil shavings, violet and crushed mint. Medium- to full-bodied, deep and dense, with a nicely integrated chassis of sweet structuring tannin, it's classically proportioned, with a long, penetrating finish. This blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc checks in at 13% alcohol.