There’s plenty of volume in this dark, brooding version, unveiling layers of warm cassis, violet and dried garrigue set against a wall of crushed iron and alder smoke. Broad and creamy through the briny, smoky finish, where polished tannins hold firm for a long life ahead in the cellar. Drink now through 2040.

Creamy and rich in feel, with a streaming mix of plum coulis, incense smoke, sweet leafiness and cured meat for a complex, salty impression. Bolts of iron ground the finish, with a thread of worn cedar and fine-grained tannins guiding the long finish, perked up with a jolt of mineral freshness. Very appealing. Drink now through 2040. 1,500 cases made, 150 cases imported.

There’s loads of aromatic depth and range to this complex, stunning red. Cast iron wraps around supple notes of ripe currant, plum and juniper, plus a tug of tar, all swirling with incense smoke. Texturally beautiful, with creamy bacon lard adding richness. Tension runs throughout; this offers a lengthy, complex finish. Drink now through 2040. 600 cases made, 60 cases imported.

From the first year of the Vinotèque programme, the bottle tasted of this classic, balanced vintage for Cristal was disgorged in 2010 after a period of lees ageing that included six years of 'poignetage', or shaking. It's a perfumed, charming Cristal more marked by Chardonnay glide and delicacy than many, with sweet orange citrus fruit, white peach and sweet-sour cooked apricots sitting under a delicious aromatic ageing complexity which throws up everything from Turkish delight to apricot kernel, sweet hazelnuts and milk chocolate. This is a complete, serene wine built more on beautiful fruit and ageing complexity than the salinity and tension of modern Cristal, although it has aged with beautiful integrity.

This sunny, ripe, generous vintage of Cristal sent Roederer's Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon in search of greater concentration and purity in the plots selected, with the resulting wine taking in extra plots of Chardonnay from Avize and Pinot Noir from Verzy that are not usually used. Through organic and biodynamic viticulture – and relatively low yields for the year – this Cristal retains the welcoming, generous texture that 2018s offer, but crucially follows it with an uncommon degree of finesse, energy and depth. Soft raspberry, apricot and white nectarine fruit is held in check by an engaging, slightly smoky white pepper complexity and a salty-chalky snap on the finish which livens up this glossy, flowing edition of Cristal. Longevity is assured here, but this is also a brilliant Cristal for drinking younger than the likes of 2016, 2014 or 2013. 30% oak fermentation, with dosage 7g/L.