This 2021 Bandol Romassan displays an extremely intense, deep color approaching violet purple, with powerful aromas of India ink, game stock, and slightly jammy plum. The palate rests on dense, rich, plush tannins and well-structured material. It is still a touch young; leave it three years to find its fullness. Best from 2027-2031.

The 2024 Bandol Romassan rosé is blended and elegant, with a fine compromise between a sustained color intensity and a full palate of rounded, coated tannins. It is a rosé of body and material that will drink well over 10 years; lovers of spiced rosés will find their happiness here. Drink now-2034.

The 2022 Rosé étoile is so complete and harmonious. A blend of 78% Grenache from de Selle and Mireille and 22% Mourvèdre from Romassan, the 2022 takes the best characteristics of each of the Ott estates and synthesizes them to great effect. Spices, minerals, sea spray, apricot and chamomile leap from the glass. The 2022 is so expressive yet still carries a feeling of understatement and refinement. The class and pedigree here are impossible to miss. This is a gorgeously balanced, texturally dynamic wine that impresses from start to finish.

The 2023 Rosé Étoile is more powerful, more mineral and more chiseled than the 2023 tasted alongside. A wine of cut, class and polish, it delivers savory layers of crushed rocks, white pepper, tarragon, toasted spices and honeyed apricot, with subtle herbal flourishes providing more intrigue. Though I prefer the single-vineyard bottlings from Domaines Ott, this blend of all the sites is undeniably classy.

The 2025 Côtes de Provence Rosé Clos Mireille is the most mineral and textural of the 2025s at Domaines Ott, and also the wine with the most cut and edginess. Green pineapple, crushed chalk, limestone and floral tincture spill from the glass, marching with confidence and a sense of gravitas. There’s real depth and complexity here. This is the best of the Ott range this year.