This leads with pronounced minerality on the nose, but then a bright burst of tangerine, blood orange and Meyer lemon flavors on the palate hold sway, joined by rich hints of crème de cassis, toast point, pastry cream and crystallized honey. Showing beautiful integration and a refined, lacy mousse, this is compact and statuesque, with a sense of restraint and the hint of more to come, while at the same time offering lovely expression in the glass today. Fresh and focused on the persistent finish. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Drink now through 2044.

The 2016 Cristal is bright, aromatic and nicely lifted. Citrus peel white flowers, mint and a touch of chamomile all grace this understated, wonderfully refined edition of Cristal. Light on its feet and super-refined, the 2016 is exquisite in its understated beauty. I can’t wait to see how the 2016 ages and won’t be surprised it gains a bit of weight in bottle, as Cristal so often does. The blend is 58% Pinot Noir and 42% Chardonnay, so a touch more Chardonnay than the norm. Of the 45 parcels that make up the Cristal domaine, just 32 were used for the blend. Verzy and Verzenay dominate the Pinots, then Aÿ. Avize takes the lead in the Chardonnays, followed by Mesnil and Cramant. Dosage is 7 grams per liter.

The 2016 Vintage is terrific. Rich, creamy and super-expressive, the 2016 is an absolute delight. All this fruit is from Roederer’s La Montagne estate, with Pinot Noir very much driving the blend. That comes through in a Champagne of notable textural resonance and breadth that grows with air. Hints of apricot, plum, spice and dried flowers caress the palate, all framed by a discreet touch of oak and an extra kick of texture from a few lots (5%) that underwent malolactic fermentation. This is a superb edition of the Vintage. The blend is 68% Pinot Noir and 32% Chardonnay. Here, the richness of the warm summer very much comes through. Dosage is 7 grams per liter.

The 2017 Rosé is bright and finely sculpted. Crushed red berries, grapefruit, chalk, mint and white pepper lend palpable energy throughout. This is an especially nervy edition of the Rosé. It will appeal most to readers who enjoy taut, vibrant Champagnes. The blend is 62% Pinot Noir (all from Cumières) and 38% Chardonnay (from Chouilly), with the energy of Cumières very much driving the blend. The Pinot came in on the early side, which was necessary to avoid rot. It is a fine effort in a vintage in which Roederer made just two vintage Champagnes, the Rosé and a Blanc de Blancs. Dosage is 8 grams per liter.

The NV Collection 245 is another stellar Champagne from Roederer. Apricot, white flowers, spice, white pepper and tangerine oil all open in the glass. This is a more open-knit style from Roederer. The blend is 41% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 24% Meunier based in 2020, but with 35% reserve wines from a perpetual reserve of previous editions and 10% reserve wines in oak, meaning the base vintage is not particularly evident. Dosage is 7 grams per liter, but it feels a bit higher than that.