The 2023 Côte-Rôtie Seigneur de Maugiron is the inaugural vintage to be matured in 25-hectoliter foudres. Entirely destemmed, it reveals aromas of tapenade, black olive, spices and dark berries, with notes of gentian and licorice adding complexity. Medium- to full-bodied, dense and structured, it’s underpinned by fine acidity, offering depth and a subtle, well-integrated oak influence. Mineral and precise, it concludes with a long, structured finish.

The 2023 Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes is more spicy than most wines in the Delas range, revealing aromas of licorice, thyme, timut pepper and a hint of grapefruit alongside dark fruit. Medium- to full-bodied, dense and fleshy, it’s deep and structured, supported by a lively line of acidity that brings a welcome sense of freshness for the appellation. Long and precise, it concludes with a delicate, persistent finish.

Another highlight in Delas’s range, the 2023 Saint-Joseph Sainte-Épine is deeply impressive, revealing aromas of mulberries, cassis, menthol, spices and dark wild berries. Medium- to full-bodied, dense and concentrated, it’s layered and precise, framed by fine-grained tannins and enlivened by a vibrant core of fruit, concluding with a long, precise and ethereal finish. Entirely destemmed and matured in barrels, of which 25% are new, it will require time in the cellar to reach its full potential.

One of the pleasant surprises in the Delas range, the 2023 Crozes-Hermitage Le Clos is crafted from the lieu-dit Saint-Georges, on the final terraces before the Rhône, encompassing some six hectares enclosed by walls. It opens with a slightly reductive bouquet that gives way to aromas of cassis, nectarine and blackberry. Medium- to full-bodied, juicy and deep, it offers excellent structure and substance, built around a long, sustained mid-palate framed by finely chiseled, elegant tannins. This is a real success.

Easily rivaling the excellent 2021—might it be even better?—Dominus's 2023 Napanook originates largely from the middle portion of the vineyard as a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% each Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Qualitatively and stylistically, it sits nicely between the lighter, crisper Othello and the vin de garde produced from the more gravelly section of the vineyard at the back, closest to the Mayacamas. Cherries and dusty loam are joined by hints of vanilla on the nose, while the medium- to full-bodied palate is lush, with a seductive swell of fruit and tannins that flows seamlessly into a long finish tinged with black olives and black tea, framed by soft tannins.