The 2020 Rioja “Reserva” from Marqués de Murrieta is just a touch lower in octane than the superb 2021 version, as this vintage the wine comes in at an even thirteen percent alcohol. The wine is crafted in this vintage from a blend of eighty-two percent tempranillo, eight percent graciano, seven percent mazuelo and three percent garnacha. The wine’s élevage in cask was twenty-one months in this vintage, with the barrels again all made of American oak. The wine’s aromatic constellation is utterly refined, wafting from the glass in a mix of cassis, black raspberries, Cuban cigar wrapper, coffee bean, a complex base of soil, refined Rioja spice tones and a beautiful foundation of American oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, precise and superbly complex, with a lovely core of fruit, great soil inflection and grip, fine-grained tannins and a very, very long, seamlessly balanced finish. This does not quite have the same mid-palate volume as the excellent 2021 Reserva, but it is a touch better balanced and more elegant wine. It is a great and utterly classic Rioja in the making. 2035-2085.

A distinctive white, with fleshy mango, peach and apricot flavors at the core, plus notes of candied ginger, lemon curd and candied kumquat. Floral details, herbal accents and a drizzle of honey linger on the finish. Drink now.

The Pio Cesare 2021 Barbaresco presents a solid core of dark fruit, cherry and redcurrant, with spice and dried rose petal elegantly layered in at the back. This wine paints an accurate picture of a classic vintage with nicely ripened fruit and firm tannins. It sees 30 months in oak, mostly in large oak casks and some neutral barrique.

The Pio Cesare 2021 Barolo draws fruit from various sites, and like the Barbaresco, you get an excellent portrait of the vintage with balanced acidity, firm tannins and bright primary fruit. There is energy and vitality in this pretty Barolo with dried cherry, iris and subtle dustings of iron ore or rust.

We are seeing some exciting Chardonnays from Piedmont in Northern Italy. The Pio Cesare 2022 Langhe Chardonnay Piodilei opens to pretty citrusy notes and ashy mineral tones. There is almond cream and spice at the back. The Piodilei paints an accurate portrait of the grape with a nice sense of creaminess.