A pretty, soft, coral color, with hints of onion skin. An initially reticent nose, gradually ceding rosehips and other more delicate red fruits (strawberry, maybe), pepper, and spice in support. A robust, phenolic, youthful palate, rejoicing in a sunny disposition but aware of the need for restraint and recalling its lack of sugar; poised and somewhat statuesque on the finish. Giacometti has been sharing a glimpse of Botero, but ultimately, and with no lack of dignity, he holds court.

Soft-burnished silver with a decorous mousse. The nose recalls mirabelle plums, petrichor, and a hint of verbena, the ripeness of the vintage held in check by steely intent. The palate is juicy, more playful than expected, with notes of clove and Sichuan pepper pleasingly juxtaposed with guava and mandarin, with poached pear and sourdough also detected. A vibrant, sapid finish ensues.

A fresh and pretty example of classic Russian River chardonnay from a cool vintage. Aromas of just-ripe tropical fruit plus a bit of toasty oak and honeysuckle. A full body and rich mouthfeel, with flavors of minerals and sliced green apples. Full-bodied. Drink or hold.

A lifted floral element shows on the nose of this wine, with aromas of lemon blossom and honeysuckle mingling with ripe apple and nectarine. The palate brings focused acidity and a nice bit of grip, with flavors of roasted pineapple, Meyer lemon, sage, and white flowers dancing through the finish.

The 2023 Chardonnay Olivet Lane has slowly opening scents of matchstick, yellow peach, crème brûlée and jasmine. The medium-bodied palate offers ripe yet understated flavors and a gently mouth-coating texture. It’s balanced by refreshing acidity and has a long finish.