Quite rich initially but composed and complete with great crackling energy and a crisp, layered finish.

Rosy pale amber colour with some definite evolution. Very pungent nose and notably less rich than the Cristal Rosé 2015 served just beforehand. Positively savoury, dense and distinctive, presumably the result of Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon’s special bottle-shaking technique of ‘bâtonnage in the bottle’ for these Late Release wines. 

The first commercialised Vinothèque (bottling experiments in 1990 and 1993). A great Chardonnay year. From magnum. Bright greenish gold. SO youthful on the nose! On the palate there’s an extraordinary combination of honeyed richness and energetic leafiness. Very complex and still amazingly youthful for a 31-year-old wine. Long and tingly – such tension again, the overriding Cristal characteristic.

Wonderfully aromatic and lifted. Citrus and energetic. Lots of exuberant fruit but overall brisk and superbly refreshing. 

Not made, like most pink prestige champagnes, by simply adding some still red to the blend for the white version but a very different animal. From six or seven grand cru villages, particularly Aÿ, Avize and Mesnil-sur-Oger (‘our Montrachet’, according to Lécaillon), fewer ingredients than the white version. More phenolic ripeness and nicely polymerised tannins. Very, very pale copper colour. And the taste and structure so different from a white Cristal. I’m a sucker for Cristal Rosé. Rich almondy nose. Very broad and very long. Utterly luxurious and flattering.