The 2023 Rosé Étoile is more powerful, more mineral and more chiseled than the 2023 tasted alongside. A wine of cut, class and polish, it delivers savory layers of crushed rocks, white pepper, tarragon, toasted spices and honeyed apricot, with subtle herbal flourishes providing more intrigue. Though I prefer the single-vineyard bottlings from Domaines Ott, this blend of all the sites is undeniably classy.

The 2025 Côtes de Provence Rosé Clos Mireille is the most mineral and textural of the 2025s at Domaines Ott, and also the wine with the most cut and edginess. Green pineapple, crushed chalk, limestone and floral tincture spill from the glass, marching with confidence and a sense of gravitas. There’s real depth and complexity here. This is the best of the Ott range this year.

The 2025 Bandol Rosé Château Romassan delivers the waxy, oily personality of Bandol, but with more brightness and energy than in past editions. Red apple skin, white pepper, passion fruit and grilled herbs paint a complex picture. Acids gain intensity and focus with aeration, ramping up all the way to the finish. The 2025 remains balanced, but the acids are notably racy.

The 2025 Côtes de Provence Rosé Château de Selle shows its hallmark delicacy and finesse in this vintage. It’s also notably more savory than usual, with an earthy bouquet of truffle, turned earth and wet stone. The acids are very much on the high side, but they remain in check, driving through with persistence. An echo of honeyed green apple lingers with a floral top note on the finish.

Pale copper colour that leans more orange than red – ramato style. Unbelievably fresh for having seven years of age! Sticky dried apricots, toast and tangy lactic yogurt on the nose. The tannins are exceedingly gentle, adding body and breadth. Mouth-filling acidity that’s perfectly balanced against the tannin and fruit. A compelling orange-peel-, spice- and salt-laced finish. A lesson in the ageability of skin-contact ‘whites’.