Roederer’s specialty multi-vintage house blend is the annual Collection creation, and this year’s Collection 245 is a finely woven, mineral-laced beauty. Composed of 41% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, and 24% Pinot Meunier, the backbone (55%) is from the 2020 harvest, while 35% comes from a Perpetual Reserve of 2012-2019 vintages, and 10% is Reserve Wines aged in oak (2010, 2013, 2015, 2017, 2018, and 2019). The dosage is just 7 grams per liter. Notes of citron blossom, lemon tart, and lime leaves slowly emerge from the glass, leading to hints of raising bread dough, fresh ginger, and sea spray, with a touch of coriander seed. The light-bodied, very dry, beautifully poised palate is elegantly crafted with intense citrus and mineral layers and a lively yet well-knit backbone, finishing long and chalky. I love the restraint here—unmistakably Roederer.

Complex nose of restrained strawberries and lemon zest, with macerated flowers and shortbread. Full body and plenty of concentration, with pinprick mousse, long and chewy, integrated acidity and amazing length. Pinot noir and chardonnay. Drink or hold.

A seductive, balanced and silky champagne rosé with aromas of apricot skins, mirabelles and stones, together with a touch of baking spices. In control and well balanced, with an attractive texture. Harmonious with fine bubbles and a laser-focused finish. Drink or hold.

Restrained green apple, lemon bush and lime, plus light brioche and chalk. Medium to full body with fine, nicely persistent bubbles and good substance on the mid-palate. Almost biting yet polished at the end, with long, refreshing acidity. Lacks a bit of complexity at the moment, but fresh. Best from 2025.

Fresh and elegant, with good focus to the pure flavors of plum skin, creamed cherry, dried lavender and sandalwood, backed by an underpinning of graphite and tar-tinged smoke. The silky tannins are fine-grained and well-meshed, providing light, taut tension on the finish. Drink now through 2032.