Very, very concentrated and dense with some salinity and really juicy. 'We call it the Chevalier-Montrachet of Champagne because it's discreet rather than showy', according to Lécaillon. Markedly savoury, and indeed not entirely unlike modern, slightly austere white burgundy. Definite chewiness on the end and a bottle that should ideally be kept awhile. But, presumably thanks to warmer summers and organically grown vines, it's more open than Cristal used to be on release.

A touch of yellow pear flashes up on the nose, immediately signalling both ripeness and the sense of juiciness that pervades the entire wine. This is accompanied by some ripe Mirabelle plum and only restrained hints of creaminess. The palate is pure, and even juicier than the nose, shining with as much clarity as roundness. The absence of dosage pushes both ripeness and structure centre stage and underlines a sense of clarity, while the finest phenolic frame corrals the fruit. Harvested from a south-facing, concave hillside in the village of Cumières that slopes down to the river Marne, this is clearly ripe, but also still embryonic. Beautifully juicy and clear right now, this will gain with further bottle age.

The ripest and darkest Pinot Noir bunches were pre-harvested and macerated before pressing. Their juice lent the colour to this compelling pink wine that is slow to open. Gently, both orange peel and later also redcurrant compote rise from the glass, showing the future direction of travel. The palate is all sleekness, held in a firm and elegant frame that marshals the generosity of the fruit and underscores the clarity and brightness of the flavours. This still has to unfold and will do so beautifully with more bottle age.

Typically pale, onion-skin color; nose mute, umami, discret, reductive. Savory, a lot of build carrying ripe fruit; a warm(ish) year, lots of energy, its red-fruit Pinot voice assertive and rich, the finish imposing yet with stentorian acidity checking and balancing, with the promise of poise and an ultimate harmony deftly deferred.

Sourced from the lieu-dit Volibarts and aged 40% in ceramic amphorae, 20% in stainless steel and the remainder in new oak (from Tonnellerie Seguin Moreau), the 2022 Coteaux Champenois Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Hommage à Camille wafts from the glass with an expressive bouquet of dried flowers, ripe citrus fruit and roasted nuts, framed by élevage in new wood. On the palate, it is medium to full-bodied, concentrated and textural, with a generous core of fruit supported by vibrant acidity, concluding with a long, sapid finish.