Disgorged in 2019 with a dosage of six grams per liter, the 2004 Cristal Vinothèque spent 20 years in the Louis Roederer cellars. This aging process involved the bottles being stacked horizontally on their sides, followed by a period stored neck-down to limit oxygen exposure while also reducing the surface area of lees in contact with the wine. After this, the Champagne underwent an additional six years of aging post-disgorgement. Lecaillon explains that this effort is to “push the wine with longer maturation into a more generous expression, not sacrificing salinity in the process.” Bursting from the glass with a deep bouquet of roasted nuts, candied lemon peel and brioche mingling with aromas of smoke and honeysuckle, it is richer and more dramatic aromatically, while simultaneously retaining a cool, racy profile. Medium to full-bodied, textural and multidimensional, it concludes with a long, chalky finish. With only 2,000 bottles available, it will be rather difficult to find; but those with disposable income who want to experience Cristal at its most generous expression should not hesitate to track down a bottle, as it stands as one of the most precise releases of the Vinothèque program so far and surpasses the regular 2004 Cristal in its depth and completeness.

The 2004 Cristal Vinothèque (magnum) takes things to another level. Two thousand-four has long been one of my favorite Champagne vintages for the top wines. It was a controversial year, one marked by record yields. Long aging on the lees fills out the wine while adding layers of dimension that enhance the essential qualities of the year. The 2004 Vinothèque is so timeless, so classy.

Shaped by the hot and dry growing season, the 2022 Coteaux Champenois Mareuil-sur-Aÿ Hommage à Camille was sourced from the lieu-dit Charmont and aged for 16 months in oak (mostly from Tonnellerie La Grange, with some barrels from Tonnellerie Ermitage) ranging from new to two years old. It jumps from the glass with aromas of black plum, cacao beans and clove, framed by maturation in new wood. On the palate, it is medium to full-bodied, highly concentrated, muscular and multidimensional, with a rich core of fruit, succulent acidity and powdery tannins, concluding with a persistent, perfumed finish. It’s a fleshy, rather dramatic wine that will pair very well with a variety of meat dishes.

The 2015 Cristal Rosé is superb. Rich and dense, the 2015 possesses terrific depth and textural resonance from start to finish. Time in the glass brings out notable creaminess and volume. Kirsch, red plum, blood orange and dried rose petal infuse the 2015 with captivating, palate-staining depth. Cristal Rosé is certainly one of the very finest wines in this uneven vintage. I find it a touch more complete than the Blanc. Of course, the volume for the Rosé is much smaller, but the best sites clearly had the potential to be quite successful. The blend is 56% Pinot Noir from Bonotte Pierre Robert (Aÿ) and 44% Chardonnay from Montmartin (Mesnil-sur-Oger) and Pierre Vaudon (Avize).

Disgorged in March 2024 with a dosage of seven grams per liter, the 2015 Cristal Rosé has turned out very well. As always, it originates from the south-facing yet windswept slopes of Aÿ, where Pinot Noir thrives, and is complemented by Chardonnay from Avize and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, imparting freshness and lightness to the infused Pinot Noir. The wine unfurls from the glass with a bouquet of orange zest, red currant, raspberry and spices interwoven with citrus notes. On the palate, it is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and intense, brimming with bright acidity and ample dry extract, culminating in a long, saline-tinged finish. The 2015 rendition is neither as tightly coiled as the 2013 nor as concentrated as the 2012, yet it exhibits the hallmark precision expected from this house—shaped by intelligent viticulture and a cellar master who refuses to rest on his laurels. True to tradition, it is crafted without malolactic fermentation, a choice that aligns with Roederer’s approach to dosage.