Fresh and elegant, with good focus to the pure flavors of plum skin, creamed cherry, dried lavender and sandalwood, backed by an underpinning of graphite and tar-tinged smoke. The silky tannins are fine-grained and well-meshed, providing light, taut tension on the finish. Drink now through 2032.

A graceful white, with flint, smoke and spice accents on the nose transitioning to flavors of persimmon and golden apple fruit, with toasted almond, Meyer lemon and saffron notes. Long and creamy, with deftly honed acidity well-meshed with the plush profile. Drink now through 2034.

The 2020 Barolo Mosconi displays a darker ruby color and reveals a fantastic nose with spicier notes of fresh red cherries, incense, candied roses, fresh sage, and peppery spice. Elegant, with fine tannins and mouthwatering freshness, it’s ripe but very pure, with a long, clean finish. It’s delicious out of the gate but is sure to age with grace over the coming 15 years. I continue to be impressed with the consistency and value these wines have to offer, and readers should not sleep on them, since they’re widely available. Drink 2024-2040.

The 2020 Barolo Ornato expresses a wonderful floral profile on the nose, with loads of fresh roses, red raspberries, dried strawberries, white pepper, and fennel. It displays a more linear approach compared to the Mosconi (which has broader shoulders and more structure), with fine tannins, snappy acidity, and a bright lift on the finish. It is elegant and a touch nervous at this stage and will benefit from another year in bottle. Drink 2025-2037.

The 2020 Barbaresco Il Bricco pours a youthful ruby hue and is fragrant with fresh violets, black raspberries, crushed stones, and blood orange. Savory and lightly sanguine, the palate offers medium body, fine tannins, a refreshing lift of acidity, and a snappy, mouthwatering finish. It is ripe and inviting without ever feeling heavy and has a light, earthy finish. Drink 2024-2036.