This comes from Quarry and Oakleaf. Wonderful aromatics here with very fine toasty notes as well as powerful lime, pineapple and lemon. Malolactic is down to 10% and the Quarry component is new, and there’s some blonde toast on the barrels, so the style has changed quite a bit. The palate is energetic but rich with lemon and white peach as well as some spiciness. Nice intensity here with a mineral twist and keen acidity. Such poise and purpose with potential for development.

A pioneering force in Provence rosé since 1912, Domaines Ott remains a reliable pick when scouring the shelves for a classic expression of the style. No need to splurge on Ott’s higher-end offerings that boast luxury bottle shapes, the $30 entry-level expression delivers exactly what drinkers look for in this style: fresh citrus flavors, sea salt minerality, and refreshing acidity.]

Though elegant, this red reveals density and intensity, along with focused flavors of tart cherry, blackberry, mineral and spices. Still a bit compact on the finish, yet the fruit pushes through. Drink now through 2030.

Succulent flavors of Meyer lemon, peach preserves, grilled pineapple and apple pastry are supple and intense on a smooth frame, with hints of butterscotch, cardamom and vanilla crème. A fresh thread of acidity leaves a lasting impression. Drink now.

Typically pale, onion-skin color; nose mute, umami, discret, reductive. Savory, a lot of build carrying ripe fruit; a warm(ish) year, lots of energy, its red-fruit Pinot voice assertive and rich, the finish imposing yet with stentorian acidity checking and balancing, with the promise of poise and an ultimate harmony deftly deferred.