The 2020 Barbaresco “Pio” from Pio Cesare is made entirely from the family’s own vineyard holdings in the village of Treiso. The wine is given twenty days of maceration time on the skins and raised in a combination of thirty-five percent barriques (one-third of these are new) and the other sixty-five percent of the cuvée in botti, also made from French oak. The 2020 Barbaresco “Pio” offers up a bright, transparent and already complex aromatic constellation of cherries, gamebird, anise, brown spices, a beautiful base of soil, a touch of red curry, gentle notes of cedar and a topnote of rose petals. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, focused and ripely tannic, with a gorgeous core of red fruit, superb soil transparency and grip, excellent balance and a long, complex and vivid finish. This is going to be an outstanding bottle of Barbaresco once it is ready to drink! 2037-2085.

Pio Cesare’s 2020 Barolo “Pio” is a classic, blended Barolo, drawn upon a wide variety of different vineyard sources (all owned by the family) in townships such as Serralunga d’Alba, La Morra, Novello, Grinzane Cavour and Monforte d’Alba. As Bartolo Mascarello always insisted, no single vineyard Barolo can match the complexity of the old school blended bottlings. The wine is given thirty days of skin maceration and aged for fully three years in thirty percent barriques and seventy percent botti, both made of French oak. The 2020 version tips the scales at 14.5 percent alcohol and offers up a superb bouquet of red and black cherries, gamebird, a touch of camphor, beautiful spice tones, gentle notes of licorice, a complex base of soil tones that will go autumnal in due course, roses, peonies and a bit of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and beautifully balanced, with a lovely core of fruit, fine soil signature, ripe, buried tannins and fine focus on the long, complex and very promising finish. This is an excellent young Barolo! 2044-2100.

This is firm and tightly wound, with thick, refined tannins setting the stage for cherry, eucalyptus, tobacco and iron flavors, while dusty, mouthcoating tannins infuse the finish. Patience required for the fruit to emerge. Best from 2029 through 2050.

This rich red features a dense matrix of tannins and lively acidity uplifting its cherry, menthol, mineral and spice flavors. Austere for the vintage now, yet there's good viscosity midpalate and this finishes long and detailed. Best from 2028 through 2050.

The Mosconi unfurls with a medley of ripe plum and cherry, underpinned by the soft perfume of blue violets and rosebuds, with sandalwood, wild herbs, and roasted shiitake adding depth. On the palate, red fruits shine through a refined and silky structure, flanked by a rich tapestry of savory spices and a hint of briny minerality. Drink now–2040.